The Kitchen Kaboodle

So now that you've seen the final product, I bet you thought, "hey what did that cost?". Well, you're about to find out.

Here's the breakdown for you:

- Cabinets from IKEA: $2600
- Granite Counter: $1850

- Appliances: $4876
- Cabinet Hardware: $372.24
- Sink: $278

- Lighting: $289.65

- Disposal: $319

- Faucet: $300.45

- Tall china cabinets: $313.95

- Tiles: $198.73

- Crown molding: $28.56

- Floors: $1940

Total: $12,964

I told you it would be shocking! How did we do it so cheap? Simply: we did a lot of the labor ourselves. We saved over 1k by just doing the demo ourselves - and we also saved the environment a little by carefully removing our cabinets and donating them instead of throwing them in a dumpster. I did all the general contracting and design work myself (though many people questioned the open shelf!). We painted ourselves, and we bought all the materials ourselves (which means we were not paying an extra cost on them).

But, we did pay someone to do most of the labor for us. I didn't include it in the budget (except for with the floors), because everything they did - we could have done. So technically, we could have only spent money on the materials. Well, we couldn't have moved the gas lines ourselves, but that cost $387, so it certainly did not break the bank. So, why didn't we just do all the labor? Well, we wanted the kitchen done in the century. . . so it just made more sense.

I also did my research on the materials. The cabinets were from IKEA so they certainly saved us a bundle, and they seem to be every bit as good as the white cabinets we looked at from Lowe's and Home Depot. The granite was a super steal, and the installation job (included in the price) was amazing by the way. We got the tile from Lowe's and it was really cheap. We even have 200+ tiles left so that estimate is really high. I scored when the china cabinets went on sale in the summer for 50% off!! So I got two for the price of one. It did mean showing up at IKEA with a herd of people and running to get them, but it was a thrill. I added the casters myself (about $5 a piece) and turned them into the rolling storage I wanted.

I also splurged on items that wouldn't break the bank but would add a lot. I bought really expensive cabinet hardware from Restoration Hardware. I could have got the hardware for a fraction of the price, but in the end, it didn't add that much to the budget and it makes a big different. I also purchased the best garbage disposal. I could have spent $99, but for a little more, I got a lot more bang for my buck.

Tune in tomorrow for a reflection of the kitchen and *gasp* things I would have changed!

Kitchen Resources

We went from this:




to this:

It may look snazzy, but where did all that stuff come from and who did the work?

Contractors:

Floors: DC Floors. These guys were great! I would absolutely use them again.

Gas line plumbing: Grayton Plumbing. They did good work, didn't mind my questions (or hovering), and were neat and tidy!

Kitchen demo: yours truly. Now that I've done it there is no way I would hire someone to do it for me.

Kitchen cabinets, tile, light plumbing and electrical: Tritsch contracting (e-mail Allen at: allentri@hotmail.com). I met Allen at IKEA while working through the kitchen planning process. They were professional, timely, and efficient. Oh, and pretty much a bargain. While your not going to get museum quality work, these guys are great, and they were really easy to work with.


The Stuff:

Cabinets: IKEA

Sink, faucet, garbage disposal and tile: Lowe's

Large china cabinets: IKEA

Wooden crates on shelf: World Market

Glass pedestal bowl: Crate and Barrel

Baskets above cabinets: Target

Cabinet Hardware: Restoration Hardware

Appliances: Sears (Kenmore)



Anything else you wanna know? Go ahead and ask.

Tomorrow? The budget breakdown. How much did this puppy cost? You'll find out. Brace yourself.

Terms of a Contract

Talking with another couple about their house renovation they expressed concern over their contractor and how he has too much of their money and has not been working diligently. While that has happened to me, I certainly have experience on things going wrong with someone working in your home.


Here are some of my tips for setting a contract for home repair/renovation/improvement/etc:

Have each item to be done written on a separate line so everything you discussed is in the contract
I've had a "contract" given to me that says something like "600 feet of flooring to be resurfaced". That doesn't cut it. You need exactly what it to be done explicitly spelled out. So, in the case of the floors being redone you would need to write out the number or square feet, the stain to be used, number of coats of finish, and any other extras like the quarter round etc. This way both of you know exactly how the job will go.


Create a time line (it can be flexible and given a few days/weeks cushion time)
This is a little tricky. But, you want something in there saying it will take X number of days or weeks. You can add a line saying "any additions to the project will extend the length of time to complete" to make sure that you have some wiggly room. But, the idea is that you and the person you hire know when the project should be completed.

Draw a diagram if the work involves building
For our kitchen, I included the diagrams I made using the IKEA software. This shows exactly where all the cabinets needed to go. But, for the fireplace reframing I included pictures of what we wanted it to look like as well as some dimensions. Since you probably won't be hanging around every second while they are working, it helps to have a reference point.

Manage your money
Typically, I do a 1/4 of the total price to start, 1/4 when it's halfway done, 1/4 when it's 3/4 done and I give the last 1/4 after I have done thorough inspection of the project. The exception to this rule is if you need to buy the materials. But, make sure the materials are delivered to your home and stay in your home. This way, if the contractor walks off the job - you still have the items you paid for.

What are your tips for writing a contract?

Kitchen: Day 14

The third Saturday without a kitchen. The third Saturday of waking up before 7am.

We had a lot on the agenda today and needed to start early. I had scheduled a zipcar for 7:30am to haul the demolition trash (counters, pipes) to the Fort Totten Transfer Station. So, by 8am we were loading up the Honda Element and heading out on the road. If you haven't been to the Fort Totten trash station, it is nothing to fear -- other than the smell. As far as I can tell, it doesn't have an address so you need to follow the dc.gov directions. Someone will great you prior to the entrance to ask what you have and check your DC driver's license. After that, you head to the proper place, throw your trash in the correct bin and you're on your way. While I heard you can wait a while in line, we went early and there was one in front of us.

I headed back to the house and dropped Dan off so he could meet the granite people who were coming to measure. Then, I headed to IKEA for the Seize the Day sale. Because, the china cabinets I wanted were 50% off!! I figured I would head their early and it wouldn't be a problem. I was wrong! Very, very wrong. There were tickets, lines, crowds, mania! The store opened at 10am and by 10:20am I was loading my two cabinets into the car. Thankfully only one other person was near the cabinets I wanted because there were only 8 or so in stock. I was happy to get them at such a great price! They don't seem to be on the website anymore, so it looks as though they might be discontinued. Since they were the only cabinet I found to fit the space I needed, this was a lucky break.

Back at the house I unloaded the cabinets and hopped back into the car to head to Home Depot, thinking the whole time I have no desire to be at a hardware store or IKEA again anytime soon. I got what I needed and headed home again to put a cabinet together. Two hours later. . . one cabinet was done. . .and so was I. At least for that day.

Kitchen: Day 1

Here you go: Day 1 in all it's glory! It will mainly be photos for a while until I can muster the strength to digest all that is happening and fill you in on it.

After 11 hours, we stopped for the day. I was extremely tired, but overall it was pretty smooth. Our contractor came alone Friday morning and mentioned his crew had all taken the time off for the fourth but he still wanted to come and get the appliances for us. I watched as he single-handedly muscled them all out the door and somehow got the fridge up and into his truck. I have no idea how that happened.

Here are some photos of the day:

7:30am: the kitchen "before"


8:30am: after the appliances were removed

9:30am: getting some breakfast before at Eastern Market before embarking on the day

10:30am: at IKEA buying the cabinets

11:00am: There they are! All 88 cabinet pieces!

2pm: Finishing taking down the stove hood and the upper cabinets:

6pm: Day 1 complete

IKEA Kitchen Sale

The IKEA Kitchen sale ends Sunday. This Sunday. Like, 5 days from now! We have not ordered our cabinets. In fact, we don't plan to put in the cabinets until July (Ugh, I know!). However, should we order them now? I have no idea! How long does it take them to come in? Can they hold them for us?

IKEA Kitchen Installation Options

It was pretty confusing walking around IKEA for the first time looking at the kitchen prices. The signs noting the installation prices seemed pretty vague about what exactly that meant. Was it for the cabinets + installation? Just installation? After visiting Lowes, and Home Depot, a price tag of over 3k for cabinet install was no longer sticker shock. In fact, the lowest rate we got for our kitchen (just to hang the cabinets) was $1500. Mind you, our kitchen is about 8 x10. Not big.

Interested in what IKEA charges for their services? I've made a quick list for reference (this is based on the College Park, MD prices):

- Basic cabinet install: $99/per cabinet (but, if you assemble them, it's $69/cabinet)

- Assembly only: $30/cabinet

- Planning Service (they design it for you): $150

- Measurement service: $75

- Countertop installation: $25 per linear foot (this includes 2 cut outs)

- Environmentally friendly appliance removal: $40 per appliance

- Appliance install for 4 appliances: $500

- Install sinks and connecting water supply: $250

- Delivery service: $79 for the first 20 items, $10 for each additional 10 items (one appliance = five items)


What do you think?

Tell me lies, tell me sweet little lies

Here is my e-mail correspondence with the IKEA contractor regarding the cabinet height:

Me:

Thank you for taking the time to help me with my kitchen layout yesterday. We discussed my idea of having an open shelf at 54" and then a 39" cabinet 10-12 inches above that. I know you mentioned this wasn't "code" but I figure it would be like if I did open shelving in the whole kitchen. I am just doing it for the first part. Either way, I have attached the picture of the kitchen I am using as inspiration as an example, as well as a picture of my current kitchen. Do you think this is possible? Thanks

His reply:

It would be up to you as far as the height of the cabinets to be placed at, but if a licensed contractor did the install like I was saying there is a code height for the install, but if you all do it, it will be what you want it to be. In looking at the picture- the picture is a display picture for a few different reasons, but the most important thing that I see and please do not do it, the shelf above the stove not only is it a code problem but it does not let the range hood do the job that it was designed to do and that is for grease,heat, and steam, and the two lights that go with the unit is not funtional, due to the stove. but over all good luck with the kitchen install.

This guy is obsessed with "code".

The truth and nothing but the truth

Thank you to all who suggested I contact a local inspector. I did just that. Here is our e-mail exchange:

My original e-mail:

I would like to do this in my kitchen: http://dcrowhouse.blogspot.com/2009/02/my-heart-on-shelf.html The "open shelf" is mounted at the standard height with a cabinet about that. Essentially, the open shelf serves at the "first shelf" in the kitchen and the rest are enclosed. Recently a contractor informed me this would not be "code", and the cabinets have to be mounted at 54" from the ground. My argument is the open shelf will be at the 54" line and thus is still within "regulation". It would be as if I choose to put all open shelving in my kitchen - just the top shelves have doors. Can you help?

The glorious reply I got was this:

When you say “contractor,” you mean the ikea kitchen designer, I’m not sure where they got that information. There is a requirement above ranges because of the potential for fire due to the heat generated, but not in any other cabinet space. Some municipalities may have a requirement because of issues specific to their jurisdiction, but DC is not one of them. I asked around last night and there isn’t a requirement by the IRC or ICC because I had never heard of this before. I suspect that maybe their design software doesn’t have the option for a shelf.

The level of joy I got from reading this was probably not normal.

My Experience with IKEA Cabinets: Part II

Open the IKEA Kitchen Catalog.

Go to page 52. . .

Interesting. Isn't it?

My Experience with IKEA Cabinets: Part I

A while back, I talked some smack about IKEA cabinets. The first time (about a year ago) I checked out the kitchens in IKEA they seemed pretty flimsy and . . . yucky. I just hated everything about them. I also have an extreme love - hate relationship with Ikea. Somethings are really diamonds in the rough and others are just crap.

After looking at all the models, I picked out a style I liked and headed to the design section to see if I could take a closer look. The place was mobbed and I barely got to grab a price sheet before someone toting a big yellow IKEA bag knocked me out of the way to get to a drawer pull display. It was a fight or flight situation and I choose flight.

Back at home, I re-measured the kitchen space and began planning out a design. I soon learned IKEA cabinets do not have all the sizes that say Kraftsmaid does and it gets a little more difficult to plan out a space. After a few days of playing with different styles, I headed down to the store.

This time, I was smarter. I did not go on a Saturday afternoon and instead choose a time during the week to head down there. This made a HUGE difference. About a minute after stepping into the kitchen design section, I was greeted by an IKEA kitchen contractor and set up on a computer to start my design. A few questions about the dimensions of my kitchen and I was clicking and placing cabinets into my design.

Then this happened:

I explained how the plan was to set an open shelf the standard cabinet height (54" above the ground) and then start the closed cabinets about that to go to the ceiling.

Contractor: You can't do that. The cabinets would be too high.

Me: Well, see the open shelf would be like the base of the wall cabinet - just no door.

Contractor: It's too high. It wouldn't meet code.

Me: Well... but, see, it's like the shelf would be like the wall cabinets. But, but. . .

Contractor: No licensed contractor would do that. It's not code.

Me: So, what? I would get a fine or something?

Contractor: Yes. It wouldn't pass inspection.

Me: AugjakjhGAKJYkjhkngknnf. Fine. You win.


to be continued. . .

What's the deal: Kitchen Cabinets

I want white cabinets. I have picked them out. They live in a little place called a catalog. But, in recent weeks I have been a little disappointed with their price. Could I possibly get them cheaper and have the same look? I investigated.

My choice: Maple Shaker-style semi-custom cabinets painted white.

Cheaper option: Laminate faced cabinets, which would run be about 30-60% less.

In looking into if this is something to consider I took the advice I received from many to look at the Ikea cabinets because many have said "I know Ikea can be crap, but the cabinets are pretty good". Um, I had my doubts. Now, the cabinets are about 60% (or more!) less than those I had picked out but you have to put them together. Now, for all the Ikea furniture I have put together I have learned: it's not fun and it's easy to break something or mess it up. When I argued the drawers felt horrible in the store the response from Ikeans (those are supportive of Ikea and all their wares) replied "Do you know have many people have pulled on those drawers?". Yeah, but of I average a lifetime of use it might be the same thing. Needless to say, no dice.

The next choice is to get the laminate or thermofoil cabinets at a big box store. They come put together and can even be installed for you. So, not bad. They have a similar construction to the cabinets I picked out, but the front is coated in a laminate (or plastic paper sheet) that allows for easy cleaning and care. Sounds good I thought? But, then I heard about the drawbacks. Bubbling, burning, warping. Since it really is just paper on your cabinets, if you get them wet for too long they will tend to warp. Spill hot coffee down the side and uh-oh you may have a problem. You've all seen something of plastic get too hot - so you know what I am talking about. My folks still have burned counters in the bathroom my sister and I used growing up from hot curling iron (what's up mall bangs!) - not saying it was me, just sayin' I know what happens to laminate. I even read one testimonial from a woman whose toaster warped her cabinets above it. And, since you can't just sand them down or re-paint, you have to either replace the door or the cabinet. I guess this just didn't seem that appealing to me.

That said, my maple cabinets are still my numero uno!

What to read more about cabinets? Check out this Better Homes & Gardens article: http://www.bhg.com/home-improvement/kitchen/cabinets/kitchen-cabinet-material-types/?page=1